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Perhaps the earliest visitor
to Braemar of national importance was Hungus or Angus
MacFergus, King of the Picts, who, in the 8th century
built a timber fort at or near where the present Braemar
Castle stands. This fort was named Doldencha, and it
was an important stronghold, as it controlled one of
the main fords across the Dee. Near this site MacFergus
was shown one of the bones of the martyr St. Andrew,
and subsequently dedicated a Chapel to his memory, long
before St. Andrew became Patron Saint of Scotland. The
Chapel and its successor buildings, situated in the
centre of the Braemar burial ground, became the main
place of worship for the district, and apparently remained
in use till 1830, although one must assume that after
the Reformation of 1560, it was used by Presbyterian
rather than the original Roman Catholic worshippers.
The district became known as the Parish of St. Andrew,
later changed to Kindrochit, and now Braemar.
Two centuries later,
Kenneth II visited Braemar on a hunting expedition,
and gave his name to Creag Choinnich (Kenneth's Hill),
the small rocky hill just outside the village. Malcolm
Canmore and his first Queen, again on a hunting trip,
came to Braemar about 1060, and legend has it that he
held a great Gathering at Doldencha, awarding many prizes
for feats of strength and skill - the original Braemar
Gathering, at which young McGregor of Ballochbuie carried
off the prize for the race up Creag Choinnich. Malcolm
Canmore is also credited with having built a (timber)
bridge across the Clunie, and the original Kindrochit
Castle. He may well have done so, but it would probably
have been a timber construction, and the ruins which
may still be seen on the south bank of the Cluny are
considered to be of 14th century origin. His timber
bridge was replaced by a stone arch some time between
1732 and 1780. Around the castle grew the village of
Castleton, which along with its sister hamlet Auchendryne
(Field of the Thorn) forms the modern Braemar.
Although Kindrochit
Castle was built mainly as a base for royal hunts, it
took over from Doldencha the function of a strategic
power-base. Braemar in medieval days was at the crossroads
of two important routes - the link between Aberdeenshire
and Perthshire via the Cairnwell Pass, now the A93,
and the route from the north across the Mounth to Angus
via Glen Callater and Jock's road. Other routes of lesser
importance also converged on Braemar, so that whoever
controlled that area was in a position of great strength.
Kindrochit Castle is known to have been in regular use
by the Scottish kings until the 16th century, but it
is believed to have fallen into disuse during the reign
of King James V, and was certainly ruinous by 1618.
In 1336, Braemar had another, but less welcome, royal
visitor, in the shape of Edward III of England and his
army, which passed through about 9th June en route from
Blair (probably Blair Atholl), to Lochindorb in Moray
and then south again, pillaging and destroying as they
went.
When the Reformation of
1560 came along, it did not initially have a major effect
on Braemar, although several chapels were destroyed,
Roman Catholic population adhered to their faith, clandestinely
tended by a succession of devoted priests. Nevertheless,
'The Troubles' did eventually affect Deeside, and in
1644 Campbell of Argyll and his Covenanting army mercilessly
harried the whole of the area. This complicated period
of shifting alliances and evanescent loyalties finally
came to a head for upper Deeside in 1654 in the Battle
of Tullich, where Roundheads routed a force of highland
Royalists in the Pass of Ballater, the last British
battle in which the long-bow was used.
Although the Monarchy was restored in 1660, the period
of respite for Braemar was brief, as bloodshed inevitably
followed the enforced exile of Roman Catholic James
VII and II, and the accession of Protestant William
and Mary in 1688.
"The Black Colonel",
John Farquharson of Inverey was a violent man in a violent
age. Outlawed in 1666 for the murder of a Ballater laird,
he became a hunted man, but nevertheless spent much
time in his own castle of Inverey, and fought at the
battles of Bothwell Bridge and Killiecrankie. In 1689,
he burned the 67-year-old Braemar Castle to prevent
it falling into government hands. Cornered on one occasion
by redcoats in the Pass of Ballater, he ensured his
own immortality by escaping on horseback up the near
precipitous north side of the defile. Eventually a redcoat
ambush was laid for him at Inverey, but forewarned,
he escaped, and watched his castle burning. He thereafter
took refuge in the 'Colonel's Bed', below a rock overhang
in a gorge in the River Ey, where his light o' love,
Annie Ban (Fair Haired Annie), brought him food. Before
he died, about 1698, he instructed that he was to be
buried at Inverey, beside his Annie Ban, but for some
reason he was instead buried at Braemar. The next morning,
his coffin was found on the ground beside his grave,
and was re-buried. On the third occasion this happened,
the coffin was taken to Inverey for re-burial, and was
heard of no more.
On 6th September, 1715,
one of the more memorable Braemar Gatherings took place
when John Erskine, 24th Earl of Mar, raised the Standard
for King James VIII and III on the spot now covered
by the Invercauld Arms Hotel. The Earldom of Mar is
one of Europe's oldest titles, and at that time the
Earl held a large area of land in Aberdeenshire. "Bobbin'
John", the 24th Earl, however, was a politician
of fickle loyalties (hence the title Bobbing) who bore
a grudge after having been snubbed by George I.
The Standard Raising ceremony followed a great hunt
held in the Forest of Mar, organised as a pretext for
the many Jacobite clan chiefs to plan the intended uprising.
The Earl of Mar's Punchbowl, a hollow formed in the
rock above the footbridge at the Linn of Quoich, was
filled with brandy to entertain the guests, and may
still be seen. The hunt had gone well, but the ceremony
of the Standard, watched by about 2,000 highlanders,
was marred when the gilt ball fell off the top of the
flag-pole - an omen of disaster to come. What followed
has been chronicled many times, and eventually led in
1746 to the slaughter at Culloden, and to the outlawing
of tartan dress and clan gatherings till 1782, as part
of the dismantling of the old clan system.
Following the failure of the
1715 uprising, the estates of the now attainted and
exiled Earl of Mar were sequestrated, and John Farquharson
of Invercauld, always a rather reluctant Jacobite, was
first imprisoned and then released. The westernmost
part of the Earl's land was bought by the astute entrepreneur
William Duff of Dipple, later created Earl of Fife,
and formed the nucleus of Mar Estate, while John Farquharson,
now a Hanoverian, was allowed to purchase Braemar Castle
and also part of the Earl's land. In the years that
followed, the many minor lairdships surrounding the
two large estates of Invercauld and Mar were gradually
absorbed by one or the other, until they were the only
two estates in Braemar. Balmoral, originally a Gordon
property, had passed to the Farquharsons by marriage
before being sold to the Earl of Fife, and then in 1852,
to Queen Victoria.
Story-tellers used to tell of
how, in the 16th century, following the hanging of a
Lamont of Inverey by the Faquharsons, the victim's mother
cursed his killers, prophesying that the tree her son
was hanged on would still be fresh and green when there
were no Farquharsons left on Deeside. The prophesy did
come true, as the male line of the Invercauld Farquharsons
failed in 1805, and the tree did not die until 1920.
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The Colonel's Bed as it was, now partly
collapsed.

"The Gallows Tree" in the
late 19th century. |